https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heinkel_He_177
This is the choice I have made for the contest theme build. I have included the above link to give a background of the aircraft. I also have used William Green's 'Warplanes of the Third Reich' as my main go-to reference. The aftermarket items incorporated will be Eduard colored cockpit PE and canopy masks. The kit decals are also very thick. They will be replaced with Peddinghaus decals from Germany. This will be the first time I have used their products. My initial intent is to replace the overly thick clear parts supplied with the kit. I am going to attempt to use the Falcon Vac canopy. I have used these once before on a 1/48 Ju-87 I built years ago.
I think the cover of this He-177 has a major problem. The wing stores for the Fritz-X guided glide bomb are seriously misrepresented. The hard points are located outboard of the engines on the actual aircraft. In this depicted position I believe there would have been clearance issues with propellers.
Now on to the build.
I have built the 3 Fritz X missiles per the Revell instructions. Upon further research the instructions are wrong. The forward wings/fins should have the right angle of the fin at the front not at the rear as instructions indicate. Note photos below.
The last picture shows the Fritz at the NASM (lower) versus the Fritz assembled per the Revell Instructions. Also the shape of the fin has to be modified slightly, note the square lug on the fin-tip. At least it is easily corrected. I ask the question of the manufactures, Do you not test build your own product and who researches your data before the moulds are made?
P.S. Just looked at the box art closely. The artist got the fins of the Fritz-X correct.
Well - I think you should have to preview every manufacturers new-release kits before they go to mass market, so you can make all the corrections!
I OFTEN do some research too late in a project to check on a detail, only to find out I really jacked something up! I'm learning to try to do more detailed research prior to starting the build, and to compare references with instructions and parts as I go. Slows me down a bit, but I end up feeling better about the build outcome.
Fins corrected.
Woking on the fuse, which includes installing a stand attach point in the bomb bay. This will be a plane on-a-pole. The fuse on the table on the right is the co-build of the 1/390 scale 747 in kit supplied Air Canada decal livery.
You're gonna have to quick showing images of such pristine working conditions and fancy jigs!
That should have been "quit", not "quick!"
Ok, the truth is what is behind the camera, not what is in front of it. You called me out.
LOL! Sorry I diverted you to having to do research to find such a great image! I've taken you away from the most important (well - almost) activity of a retirees life - modeling!
He does actually work on models...... Amazing.
Progress is being made after a bit of a set-back with the Falcon Vac canopy. It was designed for the Airfix kit and I thought it would work. The only way to determine that was to remove from carrier, trim and sand it for test fitting. There was a definite fuse diameter difference that made me scrub that idea. That took some time-up. Fiddly bit prep and paint have come along nicely. Fitting, masking and clear part installation put me in a good position to start paint priming.
P.S. 747 in background is coming along too.
That's a shame that the Falcon canopy didn't work, as I'm sure it would allow better view of all the detail work you put into the flight deck!
I started pre-shading and metalizing the 177. I am trying, again, the pre-shading technique of masking a panel line with a note card. Instead of airbrushing at a 90 degree angle to the panel line, I shot it at a 45 degree angle. I used this technique on my A-400m a few years ago. No one got to see that build because it literally became skeet before it was completed.
This the A400m.
This is the He-177. This technique is a PIA. The 177 in 1/72 scale versus the A400m in 1/48 is more dramatic.
The Liberty ship is also coming along. Not bad for me doing dinky-scale.
Still some fiddly bits to go on this boat.
Have fun, build on.
Saw a beautifully finished, BIG u-boat in Little Rock - made me wonder, "what if...?"
"what if.....?".... I develop cold water fusion?
You'd be rich?
I would potentially glow in the dark.
Well yeah, that too.
Spent the morning practicing mottling on the SBD part mule that PW donated. I tried free-hand utilizing varying paint/thinner ratios and pressures. I really did not care for any of my free-hand attempts. Years ago I put some mottle masks in 1/72, 1/48 and 1/32 scale from E.D.Models out of England into my tool box and never really used them. I attempted once and found them to be a PIA. On line accounts also found them to be difficult to use. After experimenting with various techniques I opted to use the PE mottle masks. I practiced with A/B pressures and ratios. I wanted the mottle to stand out on the base color. Also I wanted it to 'withstand' any weathering and light top-coat that may be done. So my ratio was 20% paint, applied at 6psi through a .18mm tip. The photos below show the 177 just after the initial top color went on. I felt it was a bit light and lacking the blueness of RLM76. After seeing the photos PW agreed it was not quite there. I went on thin because I did not want to obscure the pre-shading. So I put a thin color coat and brought the color up a bit with out obscuring the pre-shading. After it dried over night I spent the afternoon painting the mottling using the E.D. Model tools. Back story on the tools is that E.D. Models closed but the tools are available from Hannants.
https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/AEMM502 They are available in all scales previously noted.
Pre-shading
There will be touching up the mottling to be done.
Very interesting - looks like in some places there were multiple layers of the mottle - was that intended or overlap of the tool? Looks good either way! Man - that is some tedious mottling to have to do, and I can see just from this that free-hand would be insanity!
PS. I noticed the link took me to a page that says the mask is a 1/48 mask. When I search on similar for 1/72 I get no results. Is that the one you actually used for 1/72 (perhaps the actual part has both, but the site doesn't list it that way?)
My intent was to have a faded mottle close to or under a stronger one. When you look at a heavily mottled 177 there are 2-3 degrees of mottling present. A lot have overlap. When you go to Hannants, goto the search box and put in 'mottle mask'. It will list all scales available. 1/72 is available along with 1/48 and 1/32. It is now made by Airwaves. I mostly used the 1/72. 1/48 just looked too big.
@FFL Nice - that makes for a really cool look that it's in layers. How well does the PE mask lay down and conform to curves? Did you have to be careful not to hit the mask with paint to strongly to prevent bleeding? Did you just hold the mask in place by hand while painting? (you know - airbrush newbie - got to get lots of hints for upcoming projects! I have an Uhu I will need to mottle...
@greg.kittinger
Let's chat on the phone. There is a lot to discuss with those questions.
After seeing this in this format I do think the mottles, at least to my eye, are a little dark. I do, however, think that the end result is quite stunning. Considering that this might be a Kreigsmarine aircraft then they may be the proper shade. As I told you before, This is quite the looker and maybe another home run.
Thanks for your input, PW. My intent is to do a light 'fogging' with RLM76 over the top of the mottle. I went a bit darker with it in the hopes it will show through that fogging. It is all a learning experience for me and having fun doing it.
Yeah - fogging - see, I've got lots to learn about all you can do with an airbrush, other than just slather plastic with paint!