FFL
Aug 25, 2018

1/72 Revell He-177

30 comments

Edited: Aug 26, 2018

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heinkel_He_177

 

This is the choice I have made for the contest theme build. I have included the above link to give a background of the aircraft. I also have used William Green's 'Warplanes of the Third Reich' as my main go-to reference. The aftermarket items incorporated will be Eduard colored cockpit PE and canopy masks. The kit decals are also very thick. They will be replaced with Peddinghaus decals from Germany. This will be the first time I have used their products. My initial intent is to replace the overly thick clear parts supplied with the kit. I am going to attempt to use the Falcon Vac canopy. I have used these once before on a 1/48 Ju-87 I built years ago.

 

 

 

 

 

 

FFL
Aug 25, 2018Edited: Aug 26, 2018

 

I think the cover of this He-177 has a major problem. The wing stores for the Fritz-X guided glide bomb are seriously misrepresented. The hard points are located outboard of the engines on the actual aircraft. In this depicted position I believe there would have been clearance issues with propellers.

Now on to the build.

FFL
Aug 27, 2018Edited: Oct 11, 2018

I have built the 3 Fritz X missiles per the Revell instructions. Upon further research the instructions are wrong. The forward wings/fins should have the right angle of the fin at the front not at the rear as instructions indicate. Note photos below.

 

 

The last picture shows the Fritz at the NASM (lower) versus the Fritz assembled per the Revell Instructions. Also the shape of the fin has to be modified slightly, note the square lug on the fin-tip. At least it is easily corrected. I ask the question of the manufactures, Do you not test build your own product and who researches your data before the moulds are made?

P.S. Just looked at the box art closely. The artist got the fins of the Fritz-X correct.

greg.kittinger
Aug 27, 2018

Well - I think you should have to preview every manufacturers new-release kits before they go to mass market, so you can make all the corrections!

 

I OFTEN do some research too late in a project to check on a detail, only to find out I really jacked something up! I'm learning to try to do more detailed research prior to starting the build, and to compare references with instructions and parts as I go. Slows me down a bit, but I end up feeling better about the build outcome.

FFL
Aug 30, 2018

 

Fins corrected.

Woking on the fuse, which includes installing a stand attach point in the bomb bay. This will be a plane on-a-pole. The fuse on the table on the right is the co-build of the 1/390 scale 747 in kit supplied Air Canada decal livery.

greg.kittinger
Aug 30, 2018

You're gonna have to quick showing images of such pristine working conditions and fancy jigs!

greg.kittinger
Aug 30, 2018

That should have been "quit", not "quick!"

FFL
Aug 30, 2018

 

Ok, the truth is what is behind the camera, not what is in front of it. You called me out.

greg.kittinger
Aug 31, 2018

LOL! Sorry I diverted you to having to do research to find such a great image! I've taken you away from the most important (well - almost) activity of a retirees life - modeling!

Paul Wilsford
Sep 6, 2018

He does actually work on models...... Amazing.

FFL
Sep 19, 2018

 

Progress is being made after a bit of a set-back with the Falcon Vac canopy. It was designed for the Airfix kit and I thought it would work. The only way to determine that was to remove from carrier, trim and sand it for test fitting. There was a definite fuse diameter difference that made me scrub that idea. That took some time-up. Fiddly bit prep and paint have come along nicely. Fitting, masking and clear part installation put me in a good position to start paint priming.

P.S. 747 in background is coming along too.

greg.kittinger
Sep 19, 2018

That's a shame that the Falcon canopy didn't work, as I'm sure it would allow better view of all the detail work you put into the flight deck!

FFL
Sep 29, 2018

I started pre-shading and metalizing the 177. I am trying, again, the pre-shading technique of masking a panel line with a note card. Instead of airbrushing at a 90 degree angle to the panel line, I shot it at a 45 degree angle. I used this technique on my A-400m a few years ago. No one got to see that build because it literally became skeet before it was completed.

This the A400m.

 

This is the He-177. This technique is a PIA. The 177 in 1/72 scale versus the A400m in 1/48 is more dramatic.

The Liberty ship is also coming along. Not bad for me doing dinky-scale.

Still some fiddly bits to go on this boat.

Have fun, build on.

greg.kittinger
Oct 1, 2018

Saw a beautifully finished, BIG u-boat in Little Rock - made me wonder, "what if...?"

FFL
Oct 2, 2018

"what if.....?".... I develop cold water fusion?

Court Hughes
Oct 3, 2018

You'd be rich?

FFL
Oct 4, 2018

I would potentially glow in the dark.

Court Hughes
Oct 4, 2018

Well yeah, that too.

FFL
Oct 9, 2018

Spent the morning practicing mottling on the SBD part mule that PW donated. I tried free-hand utilizing varying paint/thinner ratios and pressures. I really did not care for any of my free-hand attempts. Years ago I put some mottle masks in 1/72, 1/48 and 1/32 scale from E.D.Models out of England into my tool box and never really used them. I attempted once and found them to be a PIA. On line accounts also found them to be difficult to use. After experimenting with various techniques I opted to use the PE mottle masks. I practiced with A/B pressures and ratios. I wanted the mottle to stand out on the base color. Also I wanted it to 'withstand' any weathering and light top-coat that may be done. So my ratio was 20% paint, applied at 6psi through a .18mm tip. The photos below show the 177 just after the initial top color went on. I felt it was a bit light and lacking the blueness of RLM76. After seeing the photos PW agreed it was not quite there. I went on thin because I did not want to obscure the pre-shading. So I put a thin color coat and brought the color up a bit with out obscuring the pre-shading. After it dried over night I spent the afternoon painting the mottling using the E.D. Model tools. Back story on the tools is that E.D. Models closed but the tools are available from Hannants.

https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/AEMM502 They are available in all scales previously noted.

Pre-shading

 

 

 

 

There will be touching up the mottling to be done.

greg.kittinger
Oct 9, 2018

Very interesting - looks like in some places there were multiple layers of the mottle - was that intended or overlap of the tool? Looks good either way! Man - that is some tedious mottling to have to do, and I can see just from this that free-hand would be insanity!

greg.kittinger
Oct 9, 2018

PS. I noticed the link took me to a page that says the mask is a 1/48 mask. When I search on similar for 1/72 I get no results. Is that the one you actually used for 1/72 (perhaps the actual part has both, but the site doesn't list it that way?)

FFL
Oct 9, 2018

My intent was to have a faded mottle close to or under a stronger one. When you look at a heavily mottled 177 there are 2-3 degrees of mottling present. A lot have overlap. When you go to Hannants, goto the search box and put in 'mottle mask'. It will list all scales available. 1/72 is available along with 1/48 and 1/32. It is now made by Airwaves. I mostly used the 1/72. 1/48 just looked too big.

greg.kittinger
Oct 9, 2018

@FFL Nice - that makes for a really cool look that it's in layers. How well does the PE mask lay down and conform to curves? Did you have to be careful not to hit the mask with paint to strongly to prevent bleeding? Did you just hold the mask in place by hand while painting? (you know - airbrush newbie - got to get lots of hints for upcoming projects! I have an Uhu I will need to mottle...

FFL
Oct 10, 2018

@greg.kittinger

Let's chat on the phone. There is a lot to discuss with those questions.

Paul Wilsford
Oct 10, 2018

After seeing this in this format I do think the mottles, at least to my eye, are a little dark. I do, however, think that the end result is quite stunning. Considering that this might be a Kreigsmarine aircraft then they may be the proper shade. As I told you before, This is quite the looker and maybe another home run.

FFL
Oct 10, 2018

Thanks for your input, PW. My intent is to do a light 'fogging' with RLM76 over the top of the mottle. I went a bit darker with it in the hopes it will show through that fogging. It is all a learning experience for me and having fun doing it.

greg.kittinger
Oct 10, 2018

Yeah - fogging - see, I've got lots to learn about all you can do with an airbrush, other than just slather plastic with paint!

New Posts
  • FFL
    Oct 5

    Kawanishi Bro's The Pits The Build Post black basing, Alclad Metalizer/Pre-shading Initial Top coat, some basic chipping started Ammo by Mig scratches fluid utilized on both birds for their chipping. It is very controllable. I liked working the chipping and thought it looks good. Dekels Sealed and Base washed Shiden sealed and initial wash One minor set back is the back-ordered Canopy from Tamiya, 4weeks. Still some minor finishing touches on Kyofu left but i have till the contest. These were the first WW2 Japanese anything I have ever built. I enjoyed the build. The kits assemble well, they were 1/48 scale and I got a vacation from RLM colors. I will post-up the final pictures upon completion of these 2 kits.
  • dhorn
    Jun 21

    Wrapping up on the IPMS USA review build. With the help of FFL (Kurt) and his photo booth, here are some pictures.
  • greg.kittinger
    Jun 11

    Well - I just wanted to build this unique-looking bird, and what I had in the stash was a VERY OLD Frog kit. I was thinking OOB, but from the moment I opened the box, things started happening... I was thinking I'd not add any interior details - just open up air scoops and stuff like that. Looking at the canopy, it's one loooong piece of glass, and pretty thick and full of raised framing lines. I did a quick search to see if I could find a replacement (didn't), but found a set of canopy masks for it, and decided I could sand off the framing and polish it, then use the masks, and end up with a more clear greenhouse. That led me to thinking that you might actually be able to see some of the detail, and it is just one big empty cavern! So.... The only 2 pieces of the below photos that are part of the kit-supplied interior are the two grey floor sections (with holes in them for the seats) - one for the pilot and one for the gunner. There were also 2 seats, but nothing for the observer/navigator. I added the bulkheads, stringers, decking and radio from styrene, snagged a seat from my spares box for the observer, built the swiveling gun mount from a couple of landing gear legs (spares box) and some wire. The extra magazines for the rear gun came from a set of engine dolly wheels sanded down in diameter and thickness. Below is the twin gun piece I found in my spares box as a framework to build out the guns. I used another two of the modified engine dolly wheels on the gun, along with styrene and some more parts from the spares box to create the guns. And as usual, since I'm building wheels-up, I had to totally replace the gear doors, as they did not fit AT ALL. I mentioned that I cut down the rear deck area to depict the gun cover open and slid along the back of the fuselage. I'll glue down a piece of thin styrene to depict the cover pushed back. I also had to then cut the rear canopy section that tilts open (like on the Dauntless, it just pivots back into the section in front of it), so that the gunner can get at his guns and do his thing. I used an engraving tool to depict the rail area where the panel slides open/closed. So then - I bit the bullet - and decided to sand off all the raised panel detail and rescribe everything. I found a good diagram on the-blueprints.com to help me in that task. I wish I had made this decision prior to building out all the interior detail so I would have less hassle sanding and scribing - but oh well! I had recently purchased a Valom Blackburn Firebrand kit, which contained a multi-media torpedo. I decided the Firebrand is cool enough looking without the fish, so stole it for the Barracuda build. The torpedo trunk is resin, the horizontal fin is styrene, the propellors, propellor guards and vertical fins are PE (did I mention I hate PE...?). I'll have to manufacture some shackles for the torp. More pics to come as I progress.

© 2017-2018 by Tulsa Modeler's Forum. Proudly created with Wix.com