Peter Zalesak
Aug 12, 2018

Cutting small PE parts from sprues


Cut photo-etched parts loose with a hobby knife (not your good clippers). Clip as closely as you can, but be careful — they are naturally springy and elusive. For tiny parts, leave the fret in the bag and cut through the plastic so when they come loose, they’re still in the bag.

New Posts
  • Peter Zalesak
    Aug 12, 2018

    After the resin castings are cut loose and smoothed, soak them in Westley’s Bleche-Wite to remove oils and casting residue that can hinder paint and adhesives. A bottle is just a couple of bucks.
  • browningbps10
    Feb 21

    I recently had to clean out my dad's garage and I found some old models that I can't find much info on and was wondering if anyone here could help. They all seem to be from 1955. I have Stark rocket, I think it is Monogram brand. I also have a red ME-109 and a Folke 190. Both are German WWII made by Auroua. All I know is that ME-109 is not the first edition. Thanks for any help.
  • Peter Zalesak
    Feb 5, 2018

    So I found out the the decal manufacturer that I'm using on my group build has really nice decals, nice and thin. But the downside is that they are a bear to move after a few seconds, and if you manage to fold them over while reposition, you can't get them apart anymore. On the first paint scheme I tried, I screwed up the roundels, using the wrong size on the wing underside and could not relocate both (one worked, the other tore). So I repainted to a different paint scheme and all went well except I destroyed the registration codes again on the wing underside. So, does anyone have a couple of Z's and an A, as in ZZA, in approx. 3/4" black lettering? Actually I have an A from the original decal set but I mention it only to make sure the three letters are consistent -- I can do without it. BTW, the decal set is Mike Grant RCN Sea Furies in 1/48.

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