Peter Zalesak
Aug 12, 2018

Clean residue from resin parts with tire cleaner.


After the resin castings are cut loose and smoothed, soak them in Westley’s Bleche-Wite to remove oils and casting residue that can hinder paint and adhesives.

A bottle is just a couple of bucks.

New Posts
  • Peter Zalesak
    Aug 12, 2018

    Cut photo-etched parts loose with a hobby knife (not your good clippers). Clip as closely as you can, but be careful — they are naturally springy and elusive. For tiny parts, leave the fret in the bag and cut through the plastic so when they come loose, they’re still in the bag.
  • browningbps10
    Feb 21

    I recently had to clean out my dad's garage and I found some old models that I can't find much info on and was wondering if anyone here could help. They all seem to be from 1955. I have Stark rocket, I think it is Monogram brand. I also have a red ME-109 and a Folke 190. Both are German WWII made by Auroua. All I know is that ME-109 is not the first edition. Thanks for any help.
  • Peter Zalesak
    Feb 5, 2018

    So I found out the the decal manufacturer that I'm using on my group build has really nice decals, nice and thin. But the downside is that they are a bear to move after a few seconds, and if you manage to fold them over while reposition, you can't get them apart anymore. On the first paint scheme I tried, I screwed up the roundels, using the wrong size on the wing underside and could not relocate both (one worked, the other tore). So I repainted to a different paint scheme and all went well except I destroyed the registration codes again on the wing underside. So, does anyone have a couple of Z's and an A, as in ZZA, in approx. 3/4" black lettering? Actually I have an A from the original decal set but I mention it only to make sure the three letters are consistent -- I can do without it. BTW, the decal set is Mike Grant RCN Sea Furies in 1/48.

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